Into the Cheviot Henhole, Northumberland
One of the Most Spectacular Mountain Scenes in the North of England
Nov 1, 2009
They once rose to more than half the height of Everest but the erosion of thousands of millennia has ground them down to their present low altitudes and rounded shapes. More recent erosion by ice and water has exposed some of these granites to the north and east of Cheviot summit, at Dunsdale, the Bizzle and to most spectacular effect in the narrow gorge of the Henhole.
Distant Views of the Henhole
All tracks up the Cheviot avoid the Henhole, which is normally only seen from a distance. A deep gash in the western flank of the mountain, it appears from near the summit as a mere depression in what otherwise looks like a boundless bog. The stone pathway across the summit veers off to the west, just as it approaches the Henhole, and leaves one with only a glimpse and no hint of what lies within.
More tantalising is the scene that slowly forms as one follows the Pennine Way footpath from The Schil to the Auchope refuge hut. For this looks straight into the gorge, and though the view is distant, it leaves the walker in no doubt that this is one of the great natural sights of Northumberland.
It is only by scrambling into the Henhole itself that one becomes fully aware of its sheer magnificence, which is like nothing else in the entire county. Approach from any direction usually requires much effort and determination. However, permission to drive a car along the College Valley, from the north, (obtainable from Sale and Partners, 18-20 Glendale Road, Wooler), cuts eight miles off the return walk from Hethpool.
Approaching the Henhole From the College Valley
From a parking space on a grass verge at Mounthooley, where the road ends, a well-marked track leads south along College Burn for about a mile. A right fork continues up the slopes at the valley head to join the Pennine Way near Auchope. The left fork follows the riverbank, rising gently to the mouth of the Henhole.
Even here, the full drama is hidden, but the first waterfall beckons, then a second calls from higher up and deeper into the gap in the hillside. It is with some surprise that one finds oneself scrambling along ledges over clear, deep pools and into the almost claustrophobic shadows of a narrow gorge.
On the sunny hillsides, above, are small crags, which grow taller as they reach farther into the gully, until cresting another small rise, the visitor is suddenly confronted with what is probably the most awesome sight in Northumberland.
Beneath the Henhole Crags
The rock faces that line both sides of the Henhole are not only the tallest in the county, but they are also set at the greatest altitude. In aspect and situation, as well as rock texture, they recall some of the more forbidding crags of the Lake District.
Crossing the burn can present a few problems, as it falls steeply over moss-covered boulders into deep pools. Above the northern bank are the main walls of the crag, which catch the sunshine throughout the day and dry quickly.
At the lowest point of the crag, a stone windbreak beneath an overhang provides shelter from the breezes that funnel through the gully. On a warm day, with the sun shining, the firm granite can feel welcome to the touch, and the rock climber can enjoy some of the most exhilarating climbs in Northumberland.
Ascending to the Cheviot Summit Plateau
As he picks his way up the steep crag, he can feel the exposure increase to a degree not found anywhere else in the county. By the time he reaches the grassy slopes at the top of the climb, the Henhole has opened out, and the babble of the burn, now far below, has become a quiet sibilance. If he is lucky, he might see a peregrine swooping between the gully walls.
The visitor who does not wish to climb on the crag can either return the way he came, or continue the scramble up the side of the burn. Near the top, the slopes fan out, the rocks give way to moor grass and bog cotton and the spectacle fades. A cairn stands near the southern lip, at the edge of the summit plateau. The top of the Cheviot is still a mile away, along wooden duckboard and stone slab. A steep drop to the west brings one to Auchope refuge, and a final look into the Henhole before the return to Mounthooley.
A trip to this unique river valley requires either a big effort or some forward planning, and of course good luck with the weather. Given the right combination, however, the visitor is unlikely ever to forget what is arguably the most thrilling set piece in Northumberland.
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