Hiking the Nahuel Huapi Traverse in Bariloche
Hike Argentina’s Lakes District in Nahuel Huapi National Park
Jul 30, 2009
Located just outside Argentina’s popular resort town, Bariloche, the Nahuel Huapi Traverse is a challenging 4-day/3-night hike that takes in the best views, rugged alpine terrain, and mountain culture offered in the Nahuel Huapi National Park.
Backpacks remain light, as three affordable refugios, run by the local Club Andino Bariloche, offer food and shelter along the route. Countless alpine lakes and streams offer easy access to glacier-fresh drinking water, as well.
When to Hike the Nahuel Huapi Traverse
Deep snow in the alpine environment remains until late November, making hiking difficult before temperatures soar in the summer months of December and January. The hike remains open until early May, however, March normally offers the most consistent sunny weather and cool evenings.
Patagonia is known for extreme weather changes and unpredictable conditions. Hikers are warned to carry warm clothing at all times.
The Nahuel Huapi Traverse Trail
From the south end of the Cerro Cathedral parking area, the trail winds its way up through Patagonian cypress forest towards Refugio Frey, where hikers spend the first night. The lakefront refugio sits at the natural tree line and offers hikers their first views into the alpine.
Early risers will catch a glimpse Cerro Cathedral’s daunting spires afire at sunrise. Keeping the towers on hikers left for much of the day, the route crosses two high passes linked together by a moraine filled valley. Andean Condors are frequently sighted along this route but only a few hikers are lucky enough to encounter the rare huemul deer before arriving at Refugio Jakob.
Day three begins with a challenging climb, which involves some gut-wrenching scrambling above sizable exposure. The route is only safe when dry, as the rock becomes extremely slick in the rain.
Once at the summit of the first pass, the hike follows a ridge that offers unrivaled views of Nahuel Huapi Lake on the right, and Cerro Tronodor, named for the thunderous avalanches that tumble down its flanks in the summer, on the left. After a steep descent, exhausted hikers are forced into another switchback-filled climb to Refugio Italia.
Day four is shorter, but easily the most scenic. The route climbs steadily towards Pico Turista before following an alpine ridge offering up-close views of Tronodor, and the Osorno and Puntiagudo Volcanoes in Chile. A steep descent leads to Refugio Lopez. Hikers must then follow an old gravel road to Colonia Suiza.
Getting to/from the Nahuel Huapi Traverse
The hike begins at the base area of the Cerro Cathedral ski area and ends in Colonia Suiza, a small community outside Bariloche, near the famous Llao-Llao hotel. Buses to/from downtown run hourly, and cost less than US$1.
Things to Keep in Mind When Hiking in Nahuel Huapi National Park
- Park access is free, however all hikers must sign in and out at the National Parks office in downtown Bariloche.
- Detailed route descriptions and maps are available at the Club Andino Bariloche office.
- The hike crosses four high-alpine passes where navigation skills are paramount. Inexperienced hikers should not attempt this hike.
- Pack-it-in, Pack-it-out garbage procedures help keep the trail clean for future hikers.
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